
From the Chef’s Mouth
Ruffinos’ cooking class teaches tricks of the trade
By Holly A. Phillips
Published February 1, 2012
It’s nothing fancy. The room is large, reminiscent of a hunter’s basement, a man cave with caramel wood walls, a glossy bar, and a wine cellar that would make any girl blush. There might be hunters and carnivores present, along with slabs of raw meat, but it’s pure coincidence; it’s Ruffinos’ cooking class.
Ruffino’s is well versed in the art of the cooking class by now, as Executive Chef and Partner Peter Sclafani said they have been hosting them for at least three, if not four, years.
At first, the classes were offered once a month, but they sold out quickly because the same, loyal guests were returning. This wasn’t exposing the restaurant.
“We started selling them as a way to use gift cards,” Sclafani said. “Instead of just buying a meal, now you’re buying an experience. It’s a lot of fun.”
“Fun” is quite the understatement.
As a self-proclaimed foodie, I was nearly giddy at the night ahead of me. The Italian Cooking Class featured a five-course meal, with wine pairings. I was seated next to Bret Smith, from Republic Distributing, who picked the wines for the evening.
The class was demonstration-style, with Chef Sclafani in front, complete with a large chopping block and a set of burners. Tables for the participants were lined in front, with two large TVs flanking the cooking area. A camera was set up so everyone could see what was being chopped, mixed, and breaded.
First Course: The gates of heaven
The meal started with Seafood Arancini, which translates as “little oranges.” It consists of jumbo lump crab, shrimp, fontina cheese, and risotto packed into a ball, rolled in Italian breadcrumbs and fried. It’s served with Ruffinos’ popular sauce: vodka tomato cream.
Sclafani explained that Aracini is a good way to use leftover risotto, as reheating would cook it further, negatively affecting Risotto’s signature texture. The vodka tomato cream sauce does use vodka, but it’s fired right off the bat, so no alcohol remains.
The ingredients say it all: seafood, rice, cheese. Come on. I was flooded with comfort and the night had only just begun.
“As a general rule, always buy the best product you can afford,” Sclafani said. “A chef is just accentuating that ingredient.”
Smith paired the Arancini with Villa Antinori, a blend of trebbiano, pinot gris, pinot blanc, and riesling, which resulted in a crisp, refreshing contrast to the cheesy goodness on my plate.
Second Course: The soup whisperer
If Chef Sclafani opened a soup shop, requiring us all to line up, order, and sidestep in a military manner, I’d be there everyday if it meant getting a cup of the second course: roasted garlic soup.
The soup, made of onion, garlic, French bread, and heavy cream, among other ingredients, was thick and very filling. The soup was paired with Poliziano’s Rosso di Montepulciano, a full-bodied red that highlighted the warm garlic deliciously.
Sclafani, a New Orleans native, has been cooking for Ruffino’s since the doors opened 13 years ago. He’s a third generation chef, so perhaps that garlic soup is literally in his blood.
“A lot of people think cooking is too complicated,” he said. “But this is what I love. Those of us who love cooking love the transformation of taking raw ingredients and making something. We like to create that magic.”
Third Course: Bacon
Once the bacon hit the pan, the room was filled with a drool-worthy aroma of rendering fat. Sclafani demonstrated the proper technique for cooking pasta: salty water, with olive oil, combined with constant movement to prevent clumping.
The result was an Italian classic, Spaghetti a la Vongoli, or spaghetti with a white clam sauce. The clams were cooked to perfection, and nestled inside their shells were pieces of bacon. I don’t know if I’ll ever taste something so savory-yet-devilish again. I washed it down with Le Bruniche Chardonnay Di Toscana.
Although Ruffino’s showcases classic Italian-Creole cuisine and Sclafani shines in his refined cooking techniques, he doesn’t shy away from modern techniques like cooking with liquid nitrogen. His latest obsession is sous-vide, a cooking method using vacuum-sealed bags. Using this method, meat can cook at a lower temperature for hours, even days, and still remain medium-rare.
Fourth Course: My heart melts
Next was Osso Bucco, a piece of braised bone-in pork, served with a chunky tomato sauce and ricotta gnocchi. The pork was perfection. In fact, I’m certain my eyes glazed over and the room went silent in my moment of food peace. A Chianti Classico from Peppoli Estate paired wonderfully with the meat, and the gnocchi.
“We never want our guests to feel intimidated,” Sclafani said. “Coming to these classes teaches you about wine and flavors, but there’s no right or wrong.”
Fifth Course: Coffee coma
Finally, I was blessed with a coffee cup filled with coffee-based panna cotta, and a pile of homemade whipped cream. The thick cream was cut with our fifth wine, Ceretto Moscato, which was a true delight.
“Some chefs, when they show you how to make something, they might leave out an ingredient that makes the dish,” Smith told me. “Peter isn’t like that. He doesn’t have an ego, he’s a good guy.”
I nearly had to roll myself out of the restaurant, but I was happily stuffed. Chef Sclafani was right, the cooking class is about an experience, not just a meal. And this experience won’t be one to forget.
Cooking Tips From Chef Sclafani
Don’t purchase pre-chopped, canned garlic. Use fresh, or buy peeled, as long as it’s untreated.
Instead of buying fresh herbs in packs, buy the entire plant, cut off what you need, and watch it grow back.
Cook with the alcohol you plan to drink with your meal.
Use chicken base to enhance sauces; purchase as paste, but make sure the first ingredient is chicken, not salt.
Use Maldon sea salt to finish dishes. Other salt might leave a crunch, whereas Maldon melts easily.
Ruffino’s has a variety of cooking classes, from Cajun to Wild Game, lined up for the year. Each class is $100 per person, which includes tax, tip, dinner, and wine. They fill up fast, so call 225.753.3458 to make a reservation or visit www.RuffinosRestaurant.com.



Be the first to comment